2023, Domaine A. -F. Gros, RICHEBOURG, Grand CruThis wine is consistently (and unsurprisingly) the finest in the cellar; 2023 is no exception. The wine has a deceptively light colour, but profuse aromas blossom from the glass, including sweet cherry and blackberry fruit, savoury, almost gamey notes, a bit of earth and some distinctive flinty mineral notes. There is a bit of reduction, but this will fade with time (and bottling). The texture is tannic and long and the freshness keeps the wine

cedar and light tobacco notes

these tannins are front and centre but so fine and so precise that they don't get in the way of the fruit

all the planets are aligned

Baron Philippe de Rothschild & Viña Concha y Toro

Also beautifully fluid and mineral but here there’s an extra visibility to the depth of flavour – discreet but present – the finish almost unending – that’s a beauty

You probably have to be a bit of a limestone fanatic (as I am) to truly love this vintage of Laroque

finely chiselled tannins and impressive tension on the slightly peppery finish

with a fine aftertaste

and a raft of white pepper along with some tannin behind

But complementary

the fruit suffered a little shrivelling

and decanting for at least half an hour is recommended—a solid effort in a challenging year